Two title cards in this opening episode of DIRTY DENIM pretty much sum up high-end denim production in L.A.: “Stealing” and “Survival.”

We learn in this segment that the upscale-jeans wave started in 2003, when all the major domestic and international players descended upon Los Angeles, home of the world’s master denim technicians. L.A. became to jeans what Detroit was to cars. Those wanting to compete in this cutthroat industry needed only a few samples, space at the trade show, and nerves of steel.

We hear from Peter Kim (Hudson Jeans), Jeff Rudes (J Brand), Henry Duarte (Duarte No. Q65), Maria and Mik Serfontaine (Serfontaine), Wayne Joffe (Dégaine USA), Tadd Zarubica (formerly of Denim of Virtue and Yanuk), and identical twins Gavin and Drew Foster (better known by their nicknames, which they lent to their line — Chip & Pepper).

These brothers invite us into a tense conference call in their Venice, California, headquarters, where it’s clear that despite the flowing Budweiser and extremely Casual Friday attire, this is serious business.

The screen is often divided into Brady Bunch–like boxes, and while it’s hard to take your eyes off the speakers, take note of the handiwork going on to the side: People sand, spray, and fray jeans with the utmost care and precision.

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