Masako Kaufman

I met Masako Kaufman in 2000, in a very New York manner. I recognized her at a party because we had both been photographed for a “head scarf” trend story in the New York Post. How very Bruce Weber of us. We became fast friends, and I have watched both her adorable son and her magnificent career mature.

Today Masako is one of the most sought-after women in the fashion world. Basically, if she likes your line, you have struck gold. As president of Polkadots International Inc., her consulting firm, she launches new American lines to the Japanese marketplace and keeps top Japanese buyers in the know with the latest trends and designers from the U.S. She is also one of the most hysterical and fun-loving gals in town.

Designers, listen up! If you want to know what Masako is looking for, read on:

Cator Sparks: How did you get started?

Masako Kaufman: I have always been quite a trend follower. Fourteen years ago, when Cynthia Rowley received a Perry Ellis award, I fell in love with what she designed at that time. And I was invited to her store opening in SoHo. Two years later, I was helping to open her first store in Japan. I guess I have a good sense of market timing. Also, when Tuleh debuted, I met Bryan and Josh and did Japanese PR and sales. That experience helped me to connect with high-profile stores in Japan and powerful buying offices.

C.S.: What is new with you?

M.K.: I am launching new men’s and women’s designers to certain Japanese stores every season. There are so many, but here are some I’m really excited about:

Gant Rugger is a secondary line from Gant, and I am launching it to United Arrows exclusively for the SS10 season. This was not selling in Japan before, so I am looking forward to seeing how it does. Plus, I am very excited that Michael Bastian is designing Gant’s line for the FW10 collection.

I loved Thom Browne’s casual line, which was produced in Japan for a reasonable price. When I introduced him to the Japanese market for the first time three or four years ago, there was more excitement than critics in Japan and many fashionable Japanese guys wanted to wear his clothes but couldn’t afford them. Now, finally, a piece of his clothing can be bought by many Japanese people and that would be more desirable than + J [Jil Sander’s Uniqlo line]. Can you imagine his polo shirt will retail for US$120 or one of his sweatshirts for only $150?

Burkman Bros. was great as always. In all aspects — design, material, and price — it is sellable. When I went to Fred Segal in August, Burkman Bros. had a great presentation there. Also, Burkman Bros. is planning to have a press event in Japan soon.

Company of We. What sweethearts they are! Jay and Christopher created a great and affordable menswear line that was originally just online. It is both stylish and sellable. United Arrows and Jun Group in Japan will be selling this brand in spring 2010.

Also, I am currently working on debuting a new line for Japan called Edward, which is a collaboration between Odin and Duckie Brown launching this fall. I have a secret new men’s designer who is launching a collection soon, but I cannot unveil the name yet. Actually, United Arrows already ordered and will be launching the line soon. Stay tuned! Journal Standard men’s store ordered American Viceroy, which is a new brand influenced by men’s loungewear. They are cute and very nice people.

C.S.: What do you look for as a buyer?

M.K.: At my first glance, something that makes me excited. I will know what will be hot and great for the Japanese market when I see it.

C.S.: What excites you?

M.K.: When I discover someone who is so talented and help launch them into the Japanese market. For example, yesterday, after most of the SS10 market was over, I found a nice new women’s designer who had just made samples for Barneys and a salesperson called me to take a look. I have great relationships with Japanese stores, and the store that I thought this particular designer would be a match with trusts me enough that they decided to carry it without seeing any samples — just on my recommendation. This is a great feeling.

C.S.: How do you find new talent: websites, newspapers, word of mouth?

M.K.: I read a lot and am on the constant hunt to find someone new. Also, people call and e-mail me tips all the time, and I check them out most of the time so that I don’t miss great designers. I am dealing with tons of the top Japanese retail stores and many people are aware of this, so luckily it makes it easy for me to access new designers.