Stylist applies makeup

At threeASFOUR, countless tiny dots of eyeliner are applied around the eyes of every model. From afar, they appear to create a fluid line. The makeup provides a very appropriate analogy for the collection. Initially called ASFOUR, the company consisted of four people who shared a loft, a lifestyle, and … a bed. Upon the departure of Kai Kühne, the three remaining designers (Gabi Asfour, Adi Gil, and Angela Donhauser) rebranded to form threeASFOUR. Today, all three designers work together to create a unified and often breathtaking collection.

From the perspective of a graphic designer, I find threeASFOUR extremely fascinating. The garments are often composed of dramatic lines, graphics, and art (my favorite until now was their use of fractals). This season threeASFOUR collaborated with Yoko Ono to incorporate a handful of her drawings into the fabrics in the clothes as well as the makeup. As MAC’s key makeup artist hands me a sheet of the drawings that they are attempting to emulate on each model (with a black MAC Penultimate Eye Liner), she confesses, “There are about a million dots to draw.” As time passes, each makeup artist frantically gains speed and tunes out the chaos all around to focus only on the task at hand.

threeASFOUR designers with collaborator Yoko Ono: (L–R) Angela Donhauser, Gabi Asfour, Ono, and Adi Gil

In the neighboring room, extensions spill across a massive table and into several piles on the floor. When it comes to the hair, Ashley Javier obviously believes that bigger is better. The combination of extensions and a crimping iron produce volume that most of us haven’t seen since the ’80s. “We’re always fighting the frizz during the warm seasons,” says Javier. “The style is more about making it work in your favor rather than trying to tame it.”

The nails are no exception to the subtle ’80s theme. CND’s Jan Arnold combined layers of Studio White, Anchor Blue, and Super Matte. The result is a bluish teal that, although muted, still has a bit of pop to it. Each model struggles not to smudge her wet polish while trying to put on her shoes. The incredibly tall Lucite heels (think Cinderella meets stripper) are held on by a clear band but secured with black ties — the arrangement appears to be decided by the model’s look.

Model waits for nail polish to dry

Looks designed by threeASFOUR

In the opening of the show, the models all walk toward the end of the runway. Several of the girls carry black stools with them. The lights go off, and when they turn on again several of the models are sitting among the audience in the first row in pairs. If that isn’t enough interaction to spark your imagination, one model (dressed in a white dress and matching bodysuit) stands in the middle of the runway holding a pair of scissors in each hand. The other models take turns cutting sections of her dress off (I’m later told that the gestures are inspired by Albert and David Maysles’s CUT PIECE —which starred Yoko Ono). As the models weave through one another, it becomes obvious that the show is much more of a live art piece than your average fashion show. With the final snip of the scissors, the remaining piece of the white dress floats to the floor, and the music is muffled by clapping.

For more behind the scenes images from the ThreeASFOUR showcase see threeASFOUR: Backstage – by Ashley Simko.